|Rock hoping around Helens Head.|
With our great summer weather lingering on well into Autumn I was looking to make the most of it today. After last weekends expedition down to Wilsons Promontory this week I was hoping for something a little closer to home, so with the weather in mind I decided to take the short drive down to Phillip Island and revisit the Kitty Miller Bay to Pyramid Rock walk. This walk is written up by Mr Chapman as a one way stroll but seeing as I was walking with only my shadow for company I decided to do it as a there and back job. Normally retraces are not my favourite type of walk but I consoled myself today with the fact that the rising tide would probably force me to take slightly different routes on each leg of the journey.
|The tide was well and truly out at Kitty Miller Bay this morning.|
Being fairly close to home I was parked at Kitty Miller Bay and setting off by around 8:30am this morning, this was good for a couple of reasons, the first being that the temperature was predicted to hit 30˚ today so an early start would knock off a bit of the heat, the second reason was that low tide was predicted for 10am and I'd need a dead low tide if I wanted to make it around Helens Head at sea level. Dropping down the staircase onto the sand at Kitty Miller Bay I turned left and started my journey to Pyramid Rock, with the tide right out Kitty Miller Bay wasn't looking her best this morning although the red rocky reefs that were now exposed gave me something to photograph as I made my way towards Watt Point.
Rounding Watt Point my destination, Pyramid Rock came into view in the distance through the sea mist. In the foreground though my eyes were drawn to the wreck of the 'S.S.Speke', the remains of the rusting hulk resting on the rocky reef thirty metres away. The 'S.S.Speke' came aground here way back in 1906 when the ships captain bought the vessel to close to shore after mistaking bush fires for a navigation beacon. After exploring the old ship wreck for awhile I once again resumed my journey east towards the distant Pyramid Rock. The walking after rounding Watt Point is fairly easy, well at least it was today with a low tide, I either walked the small round rocks that littered the coast or along the narrow sandy area between the high tide line and the cliffs.
After crossing the wild and lonely Thorny Beach I arrive at the crux of this walk, the sea level traverse of Helens Head. As I mentioned earlier I've done this walk before but I've never managed to get around the base of Helens Head, I've always been thwarted by the surging water of Bass Strait pounding the cliffs. With the tide at almost dead low I figured that if I didn't make it today then I never would. Initially the rock shelf made for fairly easy walking but rounding the headland my route across the rocks got a little harder, first up I had to scramble down into a bit of a gulch which even at low tide was getting inundated by the waves. Once down in the gulch I had about five metres of a sea weed covered negative sloping ledge to traverse to get out of the wave zone. Waiting for the swell to flatten out a bit eventually I picked my time and moved as quickly as I could along the dodgy ledge, luckily making it to higher ground before the next set rolled in.
I was now below a steep grassed covered gully which looked climbable, something that I was interested in as I didn't fancy my chances of getting back around Helens Head at sea level in another couple of hours. Now though I stayed down and sea level band headed around the second part of Helens Head, this shorter and smaller second headland was a little easier to get around, only requiring a little scrambling and thankfully not requiring me to dodge the in coming waves. The good news was that after this second little headland I broke out onto another beautiful deserted beach, Hutchison Beach. These beaches not only look good but were a welcome respite from the rock hoping on the points, the firm sand at low tide making things even easier.
If you ever visit Hutchison Beach near low tide make sure you check out the beautiful rock pools at each end of the beach, both these rock pools deserve exploration and would be great spots for people who aren't competent swimmers to cool off in. While swimming was on my mind today I figured that a cooling dip could wait for a bit longer. Next up I had another headland to get around, this time Wild Dog Bluff, thankfully for my old bones though this headland is pretty easy to negotiate only requiring a bit of basic rock hopping and before long I arrived at my last stretch of sand before I'd get to Pyramid Rock, Berrys Beach.
|Heading towards Wild Dog Bluff, this beautiful little rock pool is at the eastern end of Hutchison Beach.|
Berrys Beach was the first spot that I'd got to with car access since leaving Kitty Miller Bay four kilometres ago so it was no surprise that for the first time on the walk I had human company. My notes suggested that I climb the access steps here and follow the Pyramid Rock Track but to be honest the start of this track is a little underwhelming I think, it winds in and out of some private beach houses and it's a while before you get any coastal views. So instead I decided to walk the length of the beach to just before Red Bluff, when I got to the end of the sand I climbed up through through the tussocks of grass to meet the Pyramid Rock Track. Actually it's a little dodgy climbing up this short off piste section, as in between the tufts of grass the ground is littered with old mutton bird burrows and from prior experience I know that these old burrows are the home to their fair share of snakes. Thankfully today I didn't disturb any snakes on my short climb though, although I did disturb quite a few of the resident wallabies.
|Berrys Beach with Red Bluff in the distance.|
Once I was up on the Pyramid Rock Track the rest of my amble to Pyramid Rock was pretty cruisey really, the track traversing the cliff tops past paddocks toasted golden brown by our long dry spell. With the sound of historic race cars at the nearby Phillip Island Raceway serenading me I finally arrived at the Pyramid Rock lookout, my halfway point today. Somehow with all my procrastinating today it was almost mid day by the time I sat down at the lookout, by now the sun had worked it's magic and it was getting fairly hot so it wasn't much of a hardship to stop for awhile and have a break. With views down to Cape Woolamai in one direction and along the rugged south coast of Phillip Island in the other direction, the seat at the end of the Pyramid Rock lookout is quite a pleasant spot to sit for awhile.
|Looking back over Berrys Beach towards Helens Head.|
Eventually I was re-fuelled and rested up enough that I started my return journey. Now up until I got back to Helens Head it was a pretty straight forward retrace and having already taken most of my photos on the outward journey I made pretty good time. Powering along like a sloth on speed I passed back across the still deserted Hutchison Beach and started around the first smaller headland. Now while I managed to fairly easily get around the first part of Helens Head it quickly became apparent that the ledge that I'd traversed a few hours earlier wasn't going to be a viable option now, with the swell pounding the cliff wall above the ledge. Not to worry, I decided that my steep grass covered gully that I'd sussed out earlier in the day was going to be my best option to get up and over Helens Head. Slowly climbing the steep slope, keeping one eye out for snakes I was soon up on the open cliff top, my route along here was the narrow no mans land between the paddocks and the cliff edge. The good thing about climbing over the top of Helens Head was that it gave me one last grandstand view, I was able to trace out my whole walk from up here.
|Heading back towards Berrys Beach, we have been going through a fairly long dry spell so things were looking a bit parched away from the coast.|
Dropping down off Helens Head I had one thing on my mind now - a swim, and with Thorny Beach spread out in panorama form below me it looked like a pretty good option. The descent off Helens Head is pretty easy, even picking up a farm track near the bottom that took me back out to the beach. Hitting the sand I turned west and headed along the still deserted stretch of sand, for such a busy tourist spot close to Melbourne it is great to know that you can still pass over two deserted beaches on the weekend in the middle of a 30˚ day. Wandering along I got to a spot that looked reasonably safe for a swim, although to be honest I wasn't really concerned with the rips and the waves today, being relatively close to the seal colony at The Nobbies my biggest concern today was sharks. Stripping off my sweaty clothes I gingerly made my way through the shore break on the gently sloping sand, when I got out to the chest deep water I decided that was far enough today and just laid back and enjoyed floating over the relentless sets coming in off Bass Strait. A cool swim on a long walk on a hot day, what could be better hey?
|Heading down to Thorny Beach, the descent off Helens Head is pretty easy going this way.|
Returning to my clothes I pulled on my now dry clothes and powered off on the last short section of todays stroll, after passing back past my shipwreck and around Watt Point the end was in sight. Rock hoping back towards the sand of Kitty Miller Bay I was greeted with a completely different sight now. With the tide fairly well in now the reefs that had been exposed on my outward journey were now covered with water and in my eyes at least, Kitty Miller Bay looked better for it. Trudging past a couple of girls and a family out enjoying the beach, I climbed up the steps back to the car park and after taking one last photo, I jumped into the ute and headed off home.
|Kitty Miller Bay looks a lot different when the tide is in.|
On my out and back walk I did 14.7 kilometres today and climbed 358 metres. I'd rate this as a medium walk, the scramble around Helens Head is a little dodgy though so it might be better heading over the top if you're worried about scrambling on sharp slippery rocks with the waters of Bass Strait lapping at your feet. At anything but dead low tide there really isn't a choice but to go over the top anyway. I used the notes out of the Chapman's Day Walks Victoria book on this stroll. All the beaches that I passed over on today's stroll are un-patrolled so use caution if going for a swim.
Relevant Posts.Point Leo to Balnarring, 2015.
|Yep, life's hard:)|